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Chaqueta sukajan acolchada con bordado de mariposas cola de golondrina espejadas y ramas de sakura, satén negro, wagara Y2K
Chaqueta sukajan acolchada con bordado de mariposas cola de golondrina espejadas y ramas de sakura, satén negro, wagara Y2K
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Two pale lavender swallowtails meet at the zipper while a flowering sakura branch opens across the night-black back. Built on black satin with a blue-violet cast, this padded sukajan trades dragons and tigers for a quieter power: contrast, symmetry and near-monochrome embroidery floating in moonlit elegance.
The Piece
This vintage-era padded sukajan is built around one of the most graceful motif pairings in Japanese decorative fashion, butterflies and flowering sakura. The embroidery stays within a narrow range of white, pearl, silver and pale lavender, so depth comes from stitch direction and reflected light rather than color. In daylight it reads pearl white and pale lilac; under warm light the satin turns charcoal or plum-black; in direct light the stitching flashes silver; in low light the flowers and butterflies appear almost ghostlike. The effect is romantic and slightly gothic without losing the athletic bomber shape.
Two large swallowtail-style butterflies, recognizable by their broad upper wings and elongated lower wing points, are embroidered symmetrically across the chest in pale lavender and white with layered markings suggesting veins, scales and ornamental patterning. Fully zipped they form a balanced central emblem, almost a heraldic crest divided by the zipper; worn open they separate into independent chest motifs. They face inward and appear suspended rather than in frantic flight, nocturnal or dreamlike creatures quite unlike the bright butterflies of casual floral fashion. Across many visual traditions the butterfly's passage from caterpillar to chrysalis to winged adult makes it an image of renewal, personal change and freedom.
The back is dominated by a branch sweeping diagonally from lower left toward the upper right shoulder, leaving generous areas of open black satin. Stylized rather than botanically exact, its clustered five-petal blossoms, buds and branching are consistent with sakura imagery: fully and partially opened pale blossoms, rounded buds, slender branches, lavender leaves and stems, white highlights, subtly patterned centers and tonal shading through stitch direction, layered for depth. Sakura are both spectacular and brief, associated with impermanence, seasonal transition and fully experiencing a beautiful moment; pale against black rather than pink against a spring sky, they shift the mood toward a nighttime flowering branch.
Front and back are related without repeating one another: movement in the butterflies, stillness in the branch. The flowers open, the butterflies gather, the season passes. Fine white piping runs from the collar around the raglan seams and down the outer sleeves, defining the curved construction and echoing the pale embroidery against solid black ribbing. From a distance the jacket reads as a clean black satin bomber; closer, the butterflies emerge and the branch reveals itself, rewarding attention through fine stitch work, tonal variation and balanced negative space.
The sukajan grew from embroidered souvenir jackets sold to American servicemen in postwar Japan, and later Japanese fashion labels widened the format into collectible streetwear. This jacket belongs to that later tradition: souvenir-jacket construction with floral minimalism and a padded lining. Butterfly-embroidered padded Japanese jackets remain less common than tiger, dragon, eagle and koi designs, and comparable padded Hoshihime butterfly jackets continue to surface in Japan, a sign of continued domestic interest in the motif.
Details
- Era: Likely late 1990s to early 2000s; undated
- Origin: Japanese market
- Material: Synthetic satin exterior and lining (no composition label; no silk or rayon claimed); light synthetic padding; multi-tone machine embroidery; textile backing beneath the embroidery
- Color: Black with a blue-violet undertone; white, pearl, silver and pale lavender embroidery; white piping
- Motifs: Front: mirrored swallowtail-style butterflies. Back: large flowering sakura-style branch
- Construction: Raglan-sleeve bomber, not reversible; black diamond-quilted lining with light padding; full-length metal zipper; subtle angled front pockets; black rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband; white contrast piping along raglan seams and sleeves; cleanly finished interior seams with reinforcement beneath the back embroidery
Condition
- Good pre-owned vintage condition with natural satin and embroidery character.
- General creasing and rippling throughout the satin, natural puckering around the embroidered motifs, light storage folds front and back and mild tonal variation from the reflective fabric.
- Occasional fine or raised embroidery fibers, gentle softening of the rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband, light handling wear around the zipper and minor surface variation within the quilted lining.
- The floral back and both butterfly chest motifs remain bold, legible and substantially complete; no major tear, severe stain, large missing embroidered section or extensive lining damage is apparent. The photographs form an essential part of the condition description.
Fit and Styling
A classic padded bomber profile: raglan shoulders, rounded upper body, moderately relaxed sleeves, gathered cuffs and waistband, a structured quilted body and compact souvenir-jacket proportions. The moderate padding suits transitional seasons, cool evenings and layering rather than severe winter. With no visible size label, fit should be judged from laid-flat measurements; the design is unisex and can be worn oversized, fitted or cropped.
The restrained palette pairs with black denim, wide charcoal trousers, dark indigo jeans, leather pants, silver jewelry, platform or engineer boots, high-top sneakers, white T-shirts and black turtlenecks, and suits minimal Japanese streetwear, gothic, visual-kei, kimono-inspired and Y2K archive dressing, or softer combinations with lavender, grey, ivory and faded blue.
Authenticity & Care
No maker label, model number or size label is visible; the jacket should not be attributed to Tailor Toyo, Hoshihime, Script, GUMU or another named brand without a clear label photograph. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
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Yokosuka Archive
A particular size, motif or decade in mind? Postwar souvenir jackets and heritage amekaji surface in Japan one at a time. Name the maker, the embroidery and the chest measurement, and the Hunting Salon™ watches for it on your behalf. Request a jacket search →
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