Japonista
Sukajan de dragón y tigre de First Shop Yamamoto, bordado plateado sobre satén azul marino, finales de Shōwa-principios de Heisei, talla L
Sukajan de dragón y tigre de First Shop Yamamoto, bordado plateado sobre satén azul marino, finales de Shōwa-principios de Heisei, talla L
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A dragon descends through curling clouds toward a tiger seated among bamboo and mountains, the whole scene worked almost entirely in silver, ivory and grey thread on midnight-navy satin. With its First Shop label and the embroidered name Yamamoto, this is a personal, shop-made sukajan with the atmosphere of an ink painting translated into thread.
The Piece
This vintage Japanese souvenir jacket takes up the classic ryūko pairing of dragon and tiger, written with the characters for dragon and tiger, and renders it with unusual restraint. Instead of the bright multicolor palette found on many sukajan, the design is built from tonal layers of ivory, pearl white, pale silver, dove grey and charcoal. Against the glossy navy ground the embroidery appears almost illuminated, giving the scene a moonlit, wintery character, like frost or sumi-e ink painting rendered on satin. Only the amber-gold eyes and a small golden jewel held by the dragon introduce stronger color.
The back presents a complete landscape rather than two unrelated emblems. The dragon occupies the upper-left and central portion, its long scaled body curving across the sky and partially disappearing behind sharp-edged, stylized clouds; fine threadwork defines the scales, mane, horns, whiskers and extended claws, and the face is especially expressive, with a sharply arched brow, open mouth and golden eyes. One claw holds the golden orb, which may be read as a sacred jewel, treasure or source of spiritual power. Below, the tiger sits upright on a rocky or earthen ledge, its body in pale silver and white with grey stripes defining torso, legs and tail, head lifted toward the dragon, mouth slightly open and golden eye fixed upward. A dense bamboo grove rises behind it and layered mountains recede into the distance, so that bamboo, mountain contours and flowing cloud lines connect the two animals in a visual dialogue between sky and earth.
In East Asian imagery the dragon belongs to the heavens: celestial power, rain, clouds and water, transformation, protection, authority, good fortune and the movement of natural energy. The tiger belongs to mountains, forests and earth: physical courage, earthly strength, protection, military bravery, determination, alertness and the ability to repel danger. Shown together they suggest balance between heaven and earth, wisdom and force, the unseen and the physical, or two formidable powers acknowledging one another. Here the dragon descends through the clouds while the tiger watches from the landscape below.
The front continues the narrative through opposing portraits. One chest carries a compact silver-white dragon head with flowing mane, curved horns, long whiskers, open mouth with dark inner detailing, gold-toned eye and layered facial scales, echoing the larger dragon on the back. The opposite chest shows a roaring tiger head beneath the name Yamamoto, sewn in flowing white script; the two heads mirror each other across the zipper when the jacket is worn closed. The name may indicate personalization, the surname of a former wearer, a commissioned detail or a shop-produced design associated with that name; as its original context is unknown, it is presented simply as a visible feature of the garment.
Pale ice-blue raglan sleeves, striped navy-and-white rib knit and matching arrowhead pocket trims complete the traditional Yokosuka silhouette. The interior woven label reads First Shop, with a Japanese telephone number beneath the shop name, and a separate size tab is marked L. The label points to production or distribution through a Japanese shop rather than an internationally catalogued reproduction house such as Tailor Toyo, Houston or Tōyo Enterprise, and locally produced, personalized sukajan of this kind are often harder to identify and replace than widely catalogued commercial models. The scenic back, complete enough to be appreciated as an embroidered picture, gives the piece the character of a framed textile as well as a jacket.
Details
- Maker: First Shop (woven shop label with Japanese telephone number)
- Era: Probably late Shōwa to early Heisei, around the 1980s or 1990s; undated
- Origin: Japanese-market production
- Material: Satin outer shell; machine embroidery; light-colored quilted interior
- Color: Midnight navy body; pale silver-blue / ice-blue sleeves; ivory, silver, grey, charcoal and muted gold embroidery
- Size: L (tag)
- Embroidered Name: Yamamoto, in white script on the chest
- Back: Dragon with golden jewel above clouds; seated tiger among bamboo and layered mountains
- Front: Dragon head on one chest; roaring tiger head beneath the Yamamoto name on the other
- Construction: Raglan sleeves with contrasting satin panels; full-length front metal zipper; two angled front welt pockets with arrowhead-style trims; striped navy-and-white rib-knit collar, cuffs and waistband; short bomber body with a slightly rounded traditional profile
- Reversibility: Appears to be single-face with a quilted interior rather than fully reversible
Condition
- Pre-owned vintage condition with visible wear, most notably a split, fraying or loss at the rear neckline ribbing.
- The embroidered artwork remains visually strong: dragon, tiger, bamboo, mountains and chest emblems are clearly defined, and the silver-white thread keeps excellent contrast against the navy satin.
- General satin creasing and storage wrinkles, natural rippling and puckering around the embroidery, light surface marks or signs of previous wear, minor embroidery irregularities, possible small loose or projecting threads, and gentle age-related fading or tonal variation.
- Near the center back a portion of the rib-knit collar appears separated or frayed, with loose fibers visible; this area may benefit from careful stabilization or professional textile repair before frequent wear, and a collector may prefer to preserve and display the garment rather than wear it regularly.
- Age-related wear around cuffs and waistband, light handling wear around pockets and zipper, possible minor marks to the pale sleeves, and creasing to the quilted lining.
- No major tear across the embroidered back panel is visible in the photographs. The zipper is present; vintage hardware should be operated gently.
- Satin shifts with light and angle: the body may read as navy, indigo or near-black and the sleeves as pale blue, silver-grey or light aqua. The photographs form an essential part of the condition record.
Fit Guidance
Vintage Japanese sizing is generally more compact than contemporary Western standards; depending on build and preferred silhouette, this tagged L may fit closer to a modern unisex Small or Medium. Traditional sukajan tend to have shorter bodies, rounded bomber proportions, raglan shoulders, full sleeves, compact chests and ribbed waistbands that sit near the natural waist.
Compare chest width, back length, center-back-to-cuff sleeve length, underarm sleeve length and hem width against a jacket that already fits well; for a relaxed or layered fit, pay particular attention to chest and body length rather than the tag alone.
Styling and Display
Because the embroidery is almost monochromatic, the jacket combines more easily with modern wardrobes than many multicolored sukajan; navy and silver sit well with black, charcoal, grey, white, cream and dark indigo. It pairs naturally with raw indigo or black denim, wide-leg trousers, Japanese workwear, military chinos, engineer boots, plain white T-shirts, black knitwear and silver accessories, and suits rockabilly, Japanese Americana and tattoo-inspired dress.
The scenic back also makes it a focal textile for a sukajan collection or Japanese fashion archive, a tattoo studio, vintage boutique, Japanese restaurant or bar, photography or costume wardrobe, or a private Japanese-art display.
Authenticity & Care
Interior woven First Shop label with a Japanese telephone number and a separate L size tab; the Yamamoto name is an embroidered personalization whose original context is unknown. Distinct from postwar occupation-era sukajan. Every piece is examined and documented in Japan before dispatch and is offered with the Japonista authenticity guarantee.
Delivery from Japan
Packed by hand in Japan and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties and taxes, where applicable, are payable on arrival. Returns follow our published policy.
Considered offers are welcome through Send an Offer, and each one is reviewed personally.
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Yokosuka Archive
A particular size, motif or decade in mind? Postwar souvenir jackets and heritage amekaji surface in Japan one at a time. Name the maker, the embroidery and the chest measurement, and the Hunting Salon™ watches for it on your behalf. Request a jacket search →
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