Sutajan

Definition

In the United States the same jacket is called a letter jacket, letterman jacket, varsity jacket or baseball jacket. It is traditionally worn by high school and college students to show school and team pride and to display awards earned in athletics, academics or other activities. A letterman is a student who has met a set standard on a varsity team, and the name comes from the practice of awarding a cloth letter, usually the school's initial, to wear on a sweater or jacket. Its typical materials are boiled wool, leather and chenille. Schools often set a minimum for a letter: in American football and basketball, a common threshold is playing in a set share, often half, of all quarters in a season, and team members who fall short may receive a certificate of participation instead.

In Japanese, stadium jumper was clipped to sutajan, a piece of English made in Japan that no American would recognise. The Japanese word for jumper itself covers a broad family of active, casual outer jackets, and dictionary entries for the jumper show the red stadium jumper, or letterman jacket, as one of its kinds.

Origin

The letter tradition dates from the late nineteenth century in American school sport, where the letter came first on heavy sweaters and the wool-and-leather jacket followed. Japan, as we read it, met the jacket mostly as a style seen on American students, in films and around the bases, rather than as an award; the Japanese name follows that shift by naming the setting, the stadium, rather than the honour. Japanese makers have since made the jacket to exacting standards, and it is a staple of amekaji.

For a Japanese collector, then, a sutajan can be three things: an original American school jacket, with a real school's letter and sometimes a name inside; a Japanese reproduction made to the old pattern; or a Japanese design that borrows the form for a brand, a character or a team. All three are honest, and each is read differently. The first is about provenance, the second about specification, the third about the design on the back.

Key facts

How to tell it from a sukajan

  • Fabric. A classic sutajan is heavy wool with leather or wool sleeves; a sukajan is light satin or velveteen.
  • Decoration. The sutajan speaks in letters and numbers, in chenille and felt; the sukajan in embroidered pictures.
  • Closure. Most sutajan close with snaps; most sukajan with a zip.
  • Meaning. The sutajan says the wearer belongs to a team or club; the sukajan says the wearer was in a place.

When buying, in our handling, the wool should be dense and free of moth damage, the leather sleeves supple and uncracked, and the chenille full rather than matted.

Where it appears in the collection

A Real McCoy's Godzilla stadium jacket from the 1999 Adventure series, a Kaminari Tokyo stadium jacket with leather sleeves and a Yohji Yamamoto Pour Homme and New Era stadium jacket of 2018 show three Japanese readings. The jacket is read in full in what is a sutajan and sutajan against sukajan; the leather jackets of Jeff Hamilton in our Jeff Hamilton guide. Stadium jackets sit on our designer jackets shelf.

Related entries

Sources

Volver al blog

Deja un comentario

Ten en cuenta que los comentarios deben aprobarse antes de publicarse.