Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra: The Clover That Became a Classic
In 1968, Van Cleef & Arpels introduced a necklace of small four-leaf clovers, each outlined with a fine border of beaded gold. Named after the Alhambra palace in Granada, the motif became one of the most recognisable designs in jewellery. Today it is worn in many sizes and materials, and pre-owned pieces are keenly sought, especially in Japan.
Sizes
- Sweet Alhambra. The smallest motif, used in delicate pendants, earrings and bracelets.
- Vintage Alhambra. The classic size, in single pendants, bracelets of five motifs and necklaces of ten or twenty.
- Magic Alhambra. A range of sizes, often combining motifs in different stones, including long necklaces and large pendants.
Stones and gold
Motifs are set with mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, malachite, turquoise, lapis lazuli, chalcedony and other stones, or worked entirely in textured or engraved gold, or set with diamonds. The gold is offered in yellow, white and rose. Some colour and stone combinations were made only for limited periods or for particular markets, and these are especially collected.
The marks on a genuine piece
- Signature. The maker's name or initials are engraved neatly, usually on the reverse of a motif or near the clasp.
- Serial number. Pieces carry an individual serial number.
- Gold mark. The gold standard appears as a stamp, and pieces made in France usually carry a French hallmark.
- Beading. The gold beads around each motif are even, round and evenly spaced.
- Stones. Inlays are cut precisely and sit flush, with no glue lines or gaps.
Imitations
Few designs have been copied as widely as the Alhambra. Imitations often show uneven beading, poorly fitted stones, thin gold, or engraving that is shallow or irregular. Weight is a useful clue, as genuine pieces are solid gold. Buy only where authenticity is guaranteed in writing.
Condition and care
- Mother-of-pearl, malachite and turquoise are soft and porous. Keep them away from perfume, lotions and water.
- Check chains and clasps for stretched links and wear.
- Store each piece separately in a soft pouch to avoid scratches.
- Boxes, certificates and receipts add value and support a piece's history.