Bvlgari Serpenti and B.zero1: A Collector's Guide
Bvlgari began as a Roman silversmith's shop in 1884 and grew into one of the boldest jewellery houses of the twentieth century. Its style is Roman: generous gold, strong colour and architecture turned into ornament. Two designs above all are collected in Japan's pre-owned market: the Serpenti and the B.zero1.
Serpenti
The serpent has been a Bvlgari motif since the 1940s, when the house began making watches whose bracelets coiled around the wrist. These early pieces used the Tubogas technique, in which strips of gold are wound around a core without soldering to form a flexible, tubular band. In the 1960s Serpenti watches and bracelets became more naturalistic, with scaled bodies in enamel and gemstones. Today the Serpenti family spans watches, rings, necklaces and bags.
- Check: the flexibility of Tubogas coils, which should spring back evenly; dents in the tubing are difficult to repair.
- Watches: confirm the reference and serial, the condition of the dial and the date of the last service.
B.zero1
Introduced in 1999, the B.zero1 ring takes its form from the Colosseum: a spiral band framed by two rims engraved with the house's name. It has been made in one to five bands, in yellow, white and rose gold, with ceramic and diamond variants.
- Check: the engraving on the rims for wear, the spiral for dents, and the size against your finger. Japanese ring sizes differ from European and American sizes; read our guide to Japanese gold and platinum marks for how pieces are stamped.
Marks and papers
Bvlgari gold is usually 18-carat and marked 750, with the house's name spelled with a Roman V and a serial number. Pre-owned pieces from Japan often come with their boxes, guarantee cards and receipts.
Questions collectors ask
Are vintage Tubogas pieces more valuable than modern ones?
Early Tubogas watches and bracelets are rare and collected for their craftsmanship. Condition decides value.
Can a B.zero1 ring be resized?
Its structure makes resizing difficult. Buy the size that fits.
Do Serpenti watches need regular service?
Quartz models need battery changes and occasional servicing; mechanical models need a full service every few years.