Goyard: Goyardine Canvas, Hand-Painted Marks and Pre-owned Buying
Among the great Parisian trunk makers, Goyard has kept the lowest profile. It rarely advertises, sells through a small number of its own boutiques and still paints much of its decoration by hand. That discretion is part of its appeal, and Japan, where Goyard has a devoted following, is one of the best places to find well-kept pre-owned pieces.
A house of trunk makers
Goyard traces its history to 1853, when François Goyard took over a Parisian packing and trunk-making business. The house made luggage for travellers, motorists and, famously, for dogs. Its trunks, like those of Louis Vuitton, are now collected as objects in their own right.
Goyardine canvas
In 1892 Edmond Goyard introduced the canvas that bears the family name. Its pattern of small marks, often read as a chevron of Ys, is applied in layers, and the base fabric is a coated blend of cotton and linen. Goyardine is light, water-resistant and very hard-wearing, which is why Goyard totes are prized for daily use.
Personalisation
Goyard offers hand-painted personalisation, called marquage: initials, stripes and symbols painted by artisans in Paris. It was originally a practical way to identify luggage. On a pre-owned piece, personalisation is a matter of taste. Some buyers welcome a stripe; few want another person's initials. Discreet stripes affect value far less than prominent letters.
The pieces collectors look for
- St Louis: the reversible open tote, sold with a small detachable pouch.
- Anjou: a reversible version with leather on one side.
- Saïgon: a structured top-handle bag with a distinctive handle.
- Trunks and hard cases: the house's original craft.
What to check before buying
- Painting: the pattern should be crisp and slightly raised, with natural, minute variations from layering.
- Edges and corners: the painted edges of totes wear first.
- Pouch: a St Louis or Anjou is complete with its pouch; check it is present.
- Interior: heat stamp clarity, stitching and lining condition.
- Personalisation: ask for clear photographs if there is any.
Questions collectors ask
Does Goyard use date codes?
Not in the way some houses do. Construction, materials, stamps and the condition of the canvas help date a piece.
Can personalisation be removed?
Not cleanly. Treat it as permanent.
Why is pre-owned Goyard popular in Japan?
Goyard's understatement suits Japanese taste, and owners keep pieces carefully. Read Why Japan Is the World's Finest Market for Pre-owned Luxury.