Condition ranks
Condition ranks are the letters Japan's pre-owned trade uses to describe the state of a piece: N, S, SA, A, AB, B and C. They appear on everything from Hermes bags to watches and jackets. They are a convention rather than a standard, so the written description and the photographs always matter more than the letter.
Definition
Each rank is a short summary of wear. Exact definitions vary from one house to another, so the following is the common meaning of each rank rather than a rule.
- N or S: new or unused. Never used, or displayed or stored but not carried. Many reserve N for items with full original accessories and S for unused items that may lack some. A piece stored for years may show slight changes from storage.
- SA: near unused. Used once or twice, or handled with great care; wear visible only on close inspection.
- A: light use. Clearly used but well kept: small scratches on hardware, slight rubbing at corners.
- AB: moderate use. Between A and B; visible signs of use, still attractive and fully functional.
- B: visible use. Obvious wear at corners and handles, scratches, some marks, perhaps a slight change of shape.
- C and below: heavy use or damage. Significant wear, damage, odours, repairs or missing parts. Some add D or junk for items offered as-is.
Origin
The scale grew up in Japan's large and organised pre-owned trade, where buyers and dealers need a fast, shared language for condition. Two habits of Japanese ownership shape it. Many owners keep their pieces with unusual care, bags in dust bags inside their boxes and watches serviced with their papers, and Japanese buyers are exacting, so small marks are often photographed and noted. The result, in our reading, is a trade in which used frequently means used gently.
Key facts
| Scale | N, S, SA, A, AB, B, C (some add D or junk) |
|---|---|
| Nature | A convention, defined slightly differently by each house |
| Words that travel with it | Mishiyo, unused; shinpin doyo, as good as new; bihin and gokubihin, fine and exceptionally fine; chuko, used; nan ari, with a fault |
| Accessories | Listed separately as fuzokuhin: box, dust bag, guarantee card, receipt, service record |
| Full set | All expected accessories present |
How to read it
- Read the words, not just the letter. The detail beneath the rank tells you where the wear is and what is missing or repaired.
- Look at every photograph. Corners, handles, hardware, interior, base and stamps; for watches the case, clasp and caseback.
- Ask about odour. Smoke, perfume and storage smells do not show in a photograph.
- Read the accessories as part of the grade. An A piece with a full set may be worth more than an SA piece without its papers.
- Allow for age. A thirty-year-old bag in A condition is a survivor; a two-year-old bag in A condition has simply been used.
We describe condition in plain English, photograph faults as well as strengths, and list the accessories that come with each piece. The same habits apply beyond bags: a toy's box, a jacket's tags and a watch's papers are its accessories.
Where it appears in the collection
Every piece in the house carries a condition note. An unused Hermes Mini Kelly II in ostrich, N rank, and an unused Chanel Star bag from the 23K collection sit at the top of the scale. The ranks are read in full in Japanese condition ranks explained, and hallmarks in our guide to Japanese gold and platinum hallmarks. Designer pieces sit in our luxury archive.
Related entries
- Deadstock: unsold, unworn stock, often at the top of the scale.
- Certificate of authenticity: paperwork that travels with a piece.
Sources
- Japonista, "Japanese Condition Ranks Explained", our own guide, linked above, for the usual meaning of each rank and the accessory terms.
Last reviewed 14 November 2026. The Japonista Curation and Concierge Team, Tokyo, Japan.