Louis Vuitton Date Codes, Condition Grades and Buying from Japan
Two letters and four digits tell you where and when a piece was made. Read with the condition grade Japanese dealers use, they are the fastest way to understand what you are buying.
Reading a date code
The code is stamped on a small leather tab or directly into the lining, usually inside a pocket or along a seam. It identifies the workshop and the date of manufacture; it is not a serial number, and the same code can appear on many pieces.
| Before the early 1980s | No date code. Dating relies on construction, lining, hardware and heat stamp. |
|---|---|
| Early 1980s | Three or four digits: the first two give the year, the following one or two the month (for example 834 for April 1983). |
| Mid to late 1980s | Three or four digits followed by two letters for the workshop (for example 863SD for March 1986, made in the United States). |
| 1990 to 2006 | Two letters and four digits. The first and third digits give the month, the second and fourth the year (for example SD0997 for September 1997). |
| 2007 to early 2021 | Two letters and four digits. The first and third digits give the week, the second and fourth the year (for example CA1147 for week 14 of 2017). |
| From March 2021 | No printed code. A microchip (RFID/NFC) is embedded in the piece instead. |
Workshop letters
France: AR, AS, BA, BJ, CT, DU, MB, MI, NO, RA, RI, SL, SN, SP, SR, TH, VI. Spain: CA, GI, LB, LO, UB. United States: FC, FH, LA, OS, SD (SD and FL were also used in France). Italy: BC, BO, CE, FO, MA, PL, RC, RE, SA, TD. Germany: LP, OL. Switzerland: DI, FA.
A missing code does not by itself mean a piece is not genuine: some early bags, many accessories and pieces with replaced linings carry none. A code that does not match the made-in stamp, the style or the period is a reason for closer study.
Condition grades in Japan
Japanese specialists grade on a shared scale, and every Japonista description states the grade alongside detailed photographs. For a fuller explanation see Japanese condition ranks, explained.
| N / NS | New or unused, often with full packaging. |
|---|---|
| S / SA | Near unused: perhaps carried once or twice, with the faintest marks. |
| A | Very good: light signs of use, nothing that needs attention. |
| AB | Good: visible but even wear, the condition most vintage pieces are bought in. |
| B | Used: clear wear, sometimes small repairs needed. |
| BC / C | Well used: for restoration or for the price-conscious. |
What to check on any piece
- Corners and piping, where canvas cracks and leather wears first.
- Natural leather handles and trim: even honey patina is desirable; dark water spots and cracking are not.
- The lining and pockets, for stickiness in older pieces and for pen or cosmetic marks.
- Hardware: plating, engraving and, for padlocks, matching numbers on lock and keys.
- Stitching: even, angled and consistent in colour, especially at handle tabs.
- Odour: storage smells can be treated; smoke and mould are serious.
Why Japan, and how we ship
Japan has been the deepest market for Louis Vuitton since the 1970s, and Japanese owners tend to keep pieces carefully, with their boxes and dust bags. Every piece we offer is examined and photographed in Japan, graded honestly, packed by hand and shipped insured and tracked by EMS or an equivalent express service. Import duties, where they apply, are payable on arrival.
Looking for something specific?
Our Hunting Salon™ locates a particular model, size, canvas or year across Japan’s private collections, then examines, documents and delivers it to you.