Kanzashi: Japanese Hair Ornaments
As women's hairstyles in the Edo period grew larger and more elaborate, so did the ornaments that held and decorated them. Kanzashi, hair ornaments, became one of the chief ways to show taste, wealth and the season. Combs, pins and flowers in lacquer, metal, shell and silk survive in great variety and make a delightful field to collect.
The main forms
- Kushi. A decorative comb, often in lacquer with maki-e, worn at the front of the hair.
- Kōgai. A long bar passed through the hair, frequently matched with a comb as a set.
- Tama kanzashi. A pin topped with a single bead of coral, jade, glass or another material.
- Hirauchi. A flat, round ornament on a pin, often in silver and sometimes engraved with a family crest.
- Bira-bira. A pin hung with thin metal strips that shimmer and chime as the wearer moves, popular with young women.
- Tsumami kanzashi. Flowers made from tiny squares of silk folded with tweezers. Apprentice geisha in Kyoto wear different flowers for each month of the year.
Materials
Kanzashi were made in lacquered wood, silver, gold, brass, coral, glass, shell and silk. In the Meiji and Taishō eras, celluloid became popular as an inexpensive imitation of tortoiseshell and ivory, and celluloid pieces are now collected in their own right. A matching comb and bar in fine lacquer, signed and boxed, is among the most prized finds.
Restricted materials
Many fine historical kanzashi were made of bekkō, the shell of the hawksbill sea turtle, an endangered species protected by international trade rules. Tortoiseshell items generally cannot be exported from Japan or imported elsewhere, whatever their age. Some corals and ivory are also restricted. We describe materials carefully, and we offer only pieces that can travel lawfully.
Condition
- Check lacquer for chips and wear on combs, especially along the teeth.
- Look for missing strips, loose beads and bent pins on metal ornaments.
- Silk flowers fade and can become brittle; original, bright examples are prized.
- Celluloid can crack, warp or discolour if stored in heat.
Care and display
Store kanzashi individually in soft cloth or fitted boxes, away from light, heat and damp. A shallow display case lined with dark fabric shows a collection beautifully and protects delicate pieces from dust.